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PERMANENT WAVE

Chapter 11

AB
OverprocessingHair is very curly when wet, but frizzy when dry.
Preliminary Test CurlsGives you actual processing time needed, and curl results based on the rod size and perm product.
UnderprocessingCaused by insufficient processing time of the waving lotion.
Processing TimeThe length of time required for the hair strands to absorb the waving lotion and recurl.
NeutralizerRehardens the hair and fixes it into its new curl formation.
Directional WrappingRefers to the angle of the partings, placement of the rods, and the wrapping pattern you choose to create specific direction or movement.
Body WavesA perm that gives support to a style, without definite curl.
Partial PermingPerming only a section of a whole head of hair.
Glyceryl MonothioglycolateThe main active ingredient in acid-balanced waving lotions.
Ammonium ThioglycolateThe main active ingredient of reducing agent in alkaline perms.
ExothermicThe perm is activated by heat created chemically within the product.
EndothermicThe perm is activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hair dryer.
CortexIt is within this layer of the hair strand that the physical and chemical actions take place during the perming process to restructure the hair into a new curl configuration.
Polypeptide ChainFormed when many amino acids are bonded together.
Disulfide BondsIt is these bonds that must be broken down to allow the perming process to occur.
ProcessingThe chemical action that softens the inner structure of the hair enough that it can mold to the shape of the rod around which it is wound.
PorosityThe hair's capacity to absorb liquids.
TextureRefers to how thick or thin each individual hair is.
ElasticityThe ability of hair to stretch and contract.
DensityThe number of hairs per square inch on your client's head. It also determines the size of the partings you will use.
SectioningThe dividing of hair into uniform working areas at the top, front, crown, sides, back and nape.
Parting or BlockingThe overall plan for rod placement in order to give the design the support, direction, and curl pattern it needs.
Single Halo Perm WrapCommonly used for average size heads to create even curls.
Double Halo Perm WrapUsually used for larger size heads.
End Wrap PapersAllows the hair to be wrapped smoothly and without stretching around the permanent-wave rod.
Physical ActionWrapping sections of hair around a perm rod.
Waving LotionSoftens and expands or breaks the internal structure of the hair.
Cold WavesA perm that does not use heat. Usually referred to as alkaline perms.
Stop Action ProcessingCurling takes place within a fixed time without the risk of overprocessing or damaging the hair.


Nanette Ririe

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