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Cosm - Ch 15 - Perm Wrapping

46 terms

cuticle1st hair layer; protective & transparent
cortexstrongest layer of the hair shaft; inner layer
medullainnermost layer; not visible in blonde hair
peptide bondschemical bonds that join amino acids
end bondsanother name for peptide bonds
hydrogen bondsweakest bonds; can be broken with heat or water
disulfide bondsstrongest bond; only broken by chemicals
salt bondscan be broken with a high pH
endothermicperm that goes under dryer
exothermicper that does NOT go under dryer
texturethe diameter of the hair strand
elasticityability of the hair to stretch and return without breaking
densitythe number of hairs per square inch
base sectionspanels
base controlangle in which the hair is wrapped
base directionangle in which the tool is positioned on the head
croquignole perms wrappingwrapping hair from ends to scalp
on-base placement45 degrees beyond perpendicular
half-base placement90 degree angle
porosityability of hair to absorb moisture
off-base placement45 degrees below perpendicular
concave rodsrods with a small circumference
straight rodsrods with an equal circumference
end papers-endwrapsporous papers to help chemicals to go through and control hair ends
double flat wraptwo end papers
single flat wrapone end paper
bookend wrapend paper folded in half
ammonium thioglycoratemain ingredient in alkalin waves
alkaline wavesanother name for cold waves
acid wavespH of 4.5 to 7
glyceryl monothioglycolatemain ingredient in acid waves
overprocessed haircurly when wet; frizzy when dry
underprocessed hairstraight when wet; dry curly ends
neutralizationstops chemical reaction; rebuilds bonds
preliminary test curlpredicts how client's hair will react to perms
basic perm wrapstraight set wrap
curvature perm wrapmovement curves within sectional out panels
bricklay perm wrapprevents splits in the hair
weave techniquezigzag partings used to blend
double toolpiggback wrap used for long hair
true acidthey require heat to speed processing
acid-balancedthey process at room temperature
neutralpH of 7.0
hydrogen peroxidemain ingredient in neutralizer
porousability to absord
non-porousnot having the ability to absord

Academic Assistant
R. D. Anderson Applied Technology Center

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