| A | B |
|---|
| cuticle | 1st hair layer; protective & transparent |
| cortex | strongest layer of the hair shaft; inner layer |
| medulla | innermost layer; not visible in blonde hair |
| peptide bonds | chemical bonds that join amino acids |
| end bonds | another name for peptide bonds |
| hydrogen bonds | weakest bonds; can be broken with heat or water |
| disulfide bonds | strongest bond; only broken by chemicals |
| salt bonds | can be broken with a high pH |
| endothermic | perm that goes under dryer |
| exothermic | per that does NOT go under dryer |
| texture | the diameter of the hair strand |
| elasticity | ability of the hair to stretch and return without breaking |
| density | the number of hairs per square inch |
| base sections | panels |
| base control | angle in which the hair is wrapped |
| base direction | angle in which the tool is positioned on the head |
| croquignole perms wrapping | wrapping hair from ends to scalp |
| on-base placement | 45 degrees beyond perpendicular |
| half-base placement | 90 degree angle |
| porosity | ability of hair to absorb moisture |
| off-base placement | 45 degrees below perpendicular |
| concave rods | rods with a small circumference |
| straight rods | rods with an equal circumference |
| end papers-endwraps | porous papers to help chemicals to go through and control hair ends |
| double flat wrap | two end papers |
| single flat wrap | one end paper |
| bookend wrap | end paper folded in half |
| ammonium thioglycorate | main ingredient in alkalin waves |
| alkaline waves | another name for cold waves |
| acid waves | pH of 4.5 to 7 |
| glyceryl monothioglycolate | main ingredient in acid waves |
| overprocessed hair | curly when wet; frizzy when dry |
| underprocessed hair | straight when wet; dry curly ends |
| neutralization | stops chemical reaction; rebuilds bonds |
| preliminary test curl | predicts how client's hair will react to perms |
| basic perm wrap | straight set wrap |
| curvature perm wrap | movement curves within sectional out panels |
| bricklay perm wrap | prevents splits in the hair |
| weave technique | zigzag partings used to blend |
| double tool | piggback wrap used for long hair |
| true acid | they require heat to speed processing |
| acid-balanced | they process at room temperature |
| neutral | pH of 7.0 |
| hydrogen peroxide | main ingredient in neutralizer |
| porous | ability to absord |
| non-porous | not having the ability to absord |
