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Oceanography

AB
Density CurrentsWhen large water masses with different densities meet, denser water slips beneath less dense
Deep water zonewater remains cold and dense. polar regions only places where deep waters are ever exposed. 80%
Deep ocean basinabout 2.5 to 3.5 mi. deep. converts 30% of the earth's surface. includes abyssal plains, deep sea trenches, and seamounts
Daily tidal rangeThe difference between the high tide and low tide (how much it rose)
Current metermeasures the relative speed of water flow. operates at any depth by cable or line
Depositionbuildup of sediment or sand
Dissolved saltsSalinity measurement is a total of all salts dissolved in water. dissolved salts are always the same kind. composition of dissolved salts is always in the same proportion even though salinity may vary slightly from the average
Drift bottlesmeasures currents, may be affected by the wind, considered a form of pollution if it is not retrieved
Corrosion/solutionDissolving of soluble minerals in coastal rocks by waves until rocks disinegrate
Continental Shelf Breakwhere oceanic crust begins. where bottom drops off into steepslope
ConvectionThe vertical transport of air or fluid
AdvectionThe horizontal transport of liquid and air (opposed to convection, which is vertical)
AltimetryA technique to measure the height of the sea surface from radar pulses emitted by a satellite
AlgaeSimple marine and freshwater plants, unicellular and multicellular, that lack roots, leaves, and stems
Example AlgaeDiatoms and seaweeds
Densest WaterCold and Salty is denser than warm pure water
NektonAnimals capable of swimming independent of current flow
PlanktonOrganisms that float or have weak swimming abilities, and are wafted by the currents
Plunging breakerThe classic "pipeline" breaker, where the crest curls forward and collapses on itself (think surfer tube)
Wave periodthe time it takes two successive waves to pass a fixed point (like a piling or pier)
WavelengthThe distance between the crest of one wave, and the crest of the next wave
Wave crestThe highest point of a wave
Wave troughthe lowest point of a wave
PycnoclineA zone having a marked change in water density as a function of water depth
HaloclineA zone having a marked change in water salinity as a function of water depth
ThermoclineA zone having a marked change in water temperature as a function of water depth
How do waves affect the gasses in waterMore waves mean more gases are exchanged with the atmosphere
How does temperature affect the gasses in water?A drop in temperature increases the solubility of gasses
How does pressure affect the gasses in water?A rise in pressure increases the solubility of gases
Connection of wind to wave sizeThe stronger the wind, the larger the waves
Wave HeightThe distance from the wave trough to the wave crest
Capillary waveWave period: 0.1 sec, Wavelength: <2cm, Cause: light local winds
FetchThe area over which the wind blows
How do you determine the wave depthWave depth is 1/2 the length of the wavelength
CelerityA term that is a measure of the speed of a wave, applies to the speed of the energy of the wave (because in waves the particles don't move, the energy does)
DispersionThe process of wave separation, outside of the fetch area
Continental slopeshelf extended outward, where ocean begins, connect continental shelf and oceanic crust
continental shelfsurrounds nearly all continents, shallow extension of land mass
continental risecurrents flow along shelf and slope, sediments are carried along and are depositede just below the continental slope, sediments accumulate to form a large,gentle slope
continental marginis the continental slope and the continental shelf
Coastal erosion featuresbeaches,arches,stacks,stumps,caves, and headland


Middle school science information
PRA Science

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