| A | B |
|---|
| wave | movement of energy through a body of water |
| wind | the main cause of waves |
| strength of wind, how long it blows, & distance wind blows | What determines the size of a wave? |
| Pacific Ocean | Where are some of the biggest waves in the world? |
| It twirls in a circle & bobs up & down. | How does the water in a wave move? |
| crest | the highest part of a wave |
| trough | the lowest part of a wave |
| wavelength | horizontal distance between crests |
| wave height | vertical distance between the crest to the trough |
| frequency | number of waves that pass a point in a certain amount of time |
| wave height increases & wavelength decreases | How do waves change near the shore? |
| breaker | when the crest of the wave falls into the trough |
| longshore drift | movement of water & sediment along a beach caused by waves coming into shore at an angle |
| sandbar | a ridge of sand deposited by waves as they slow down near shore |
| rip current | a rush of water that flows rapidly back to sea through a narrow opening |
| groin | a stone or concrete wall built out from a beach to reduce erosion |
| tides | the daily rise & fall of Earth's waters on its coastlines |
| high and low | 2 kinds of tides that occur daily |
| gravity of the moon (& sun) | What causes tides? |
| 2 high and 2 low | How many high & low tides occur each day for most places on Earth? |
| landforms, such as capes, peninsulas, and islands | one factor that can affect the height of the tide |
| spring and neap | 2 kinds of tides that occur monthly |
| spring tides | when Earth, moon, & sun are lined up to make the greatest difference between high & low tide |
| neap tides | when the sun, Earth, & moon are at right angles causing the least difference between high & low tide |
| as a source of potential energy | How can the movement of huge amounts of water between high & low tides be used? |
