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Oceans Motion and Tides

AB
breaker or surfa wave that topples over as it approaches shallow water
buoyancythe ability to float
crestthe peak, or highest point, of a wave
densitythe amount of matter in a given volume. The more matter per unit of volume, the denser the substance
gravitythe attractive force that exists between all objects
high tidethe time at which the tide reaches its highest level. High tide occurs at approximately twelve-hour intervals at any given coastal location
low tidethe time at which the tide reaches its lowest level. Low tide occurs approximately six hours after high tide
seaa region of ocean water partly enclosed by land
tidesthe alternating rise and fall of the surface level of the ocean, caused primarily by the gravitational pull of the moon on Earth
troughthe valley, or lowest point, between the crests of two successive waves
wave heightthe vertical distance between a wave crest and the subsequent trough
wavelengththe horizontal distance between two successive wave crests
world oceanthe continuous body of salt water that encircles the Earth. The four main oceans plus all the seas make up the world ocean
Longshore driftprocess of moving sand along the shore when waves hit the beach at an angle
frequencynumber of waves that pass a specific point in a given period of time
tidal energyenergy harnessed from the tides
amplitudemaximum distance from rest
neap tidemoon and sun at right angles
1st and 3rd quarterhalf moon neap tide
spring tidemoon, earth, and sun in alignment
new and full moonhorizontal line spring tide
sandbarlong ridge formed of deposited sand in shallow water
rip currentstrong current which flows through a narrow opening
electricityenergy from the tides can generate
clean and renewableadvantage of tidal energy
erosionmoving sand from one place to another
frictionforce which slows down a wave as it reaches the shore
moonobject most responsible for tides
windhorizontal movement of air which determines a wave's speed and size
twonumber of high tides or low tides per day
greatest differencespring tide causes this between high and low tides
least differenceneap tide causes this between high and low tides
waveheight and frequencyas a wave nears the shore the wavelength decreases, but these increase

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