| A | B |
|---|
| Most waves form when | winds blowing across the water’s surface transmit their energy to the water. |
| wave | The movement of energy through a body of water. |
| crest | The highest point of a wave. |
| wavelength | The horizontal distance between two wave crests. |
| frequency | The number of waves that pass a specific point in a given amount of time. |
| trough | The lowest point of a wave. |
| wave height | The vertical distance from the crest of a wave to the trough. |
| Near shore, the wave height ______ and the wavelength _______. | increases and decreases |
| longshore drift | The movement of water and sediment along a beach caused by waves coming into shore at an angle. |
| sandbar | A ridge of sand deposited by waves as they slow down near shore. |
| rip current | A rush of water that flows rapidly back to sea through a narrow opening. |
| groin | A stone or concrete wall built out from a beach to reduce erosion. |
| tides | The daily rise and fall of Earth’s waters on shores. |
| Tides are caused by | the interaction of Earth, the moon, and the sun. |
| spring tide | A tide with the greatest difference between high and low tide that occurs when the sun and the moon are aligned in a line with Earth. |
| neap tide | A tide with the least difference between low and high tide that occurs when the sun and moon pull at right angles to each other. |
| The movement of huge amounts of water between high and low tide are a | source of potential energy—energy that is stored and waiting to be used. |
| On average, one kilogram of ocean water contains about | 35 grams of salts—that is, 35 parts per thousand. |
| salinity | The total amount of dissolved salts in a water sample. |
| formula for density | mass OVER volume |
| Temperature _____ as you descend through the water column. | decreases |
| Pressure ______ continuously from the surface to the deepest part of the ocean. | increases |
| submersible | An underwater vehicle built of strong materials to resist pressure at depth. |
| current | A large stream of moving water that flows through the ocean. |
| Surface currents, which affect water to a depth of several hundred meters, are driven mainly by _____. | winds |
| Coriolis effect | The way Earth’s rotation makes winds in the Northern Hemisphere curve to the right and winds in the Southern Hemisphere curve to the left. |
| climate | The average, year-after-year conditions of temperature, precipitation, winds, and clouds in an area. |
| A ________ __________ warms or cools the air above it, influencing the climate of the land near the coast. | surface current |
| These deep currents are caused by differences in ________ rather than surface winds. | density |
| updwelling | An upward flow of cold water from the ocean depths. |
| El Niño | An abnormal climate event that occurs every 2 to 7 years in the Pacific Ocean, causing changes in winds, currents, and weather patterns that can lead to dramatic climate changes. |
