A | B |
wave | the movement of energy through a body of water (p.115) |
frequency | the number of waves that pass a specific point in a given amount of time (p.116) |
longshore drift | the movement of sand along a beach; caused by waves coming into shore at an angle (p.118) |
groin | a stone or concrete wall built out from a beach to reduce erosion (p.119) |
crest | the highest point of a wave (p.116) |
trough | theowest point of a wave (p.117) |
sandbar | a ridge of sand deposited by waves as they slow down near shore (p.118) |
tsunami | a giant wave caused by an earthquake on the ocean floor (p.121) |
wavelength | the horizontal distance between two wave crests (p.116) |
waveheight | the vertical distance from the crest of a wave to the trough (p.117) |
rip current | a rush of water that flows rapidly back to sea through a narrow opening (p.118) |
tides | the daily rise and fall of Earth's waters on shores (p.123) |
spring tide | a tide with the greatest differences between high and low tide that occurs when the sun and the moon are aligned in a line with Earth (p.124) |
neap tide | a tide with the least difference between low and high tide that occurs when the sun and moon pull at right angles to each other (p.125) |
salinity | the total amount of dissolved salts in a water sample (p.127) |
submersible | an underwater vehicle built of strong materials to resist pressure at depth (p.131) |
current | a large stream of moving water that flows through the ocean ( p.135) |
upwelling | an upward flow of cold water from the ocean depths (p.137) |
Coriolis effect | the effect of Earth's rotation on teh direction of winds and currents (p.135) |
El Nino | an abnormal climate event that occures every 2 to 7 years in teh Pacific Ocean, causingchanges in winds, currents, and weather patterns (p.139) |
climate | the pattern of temperature and precipitation typical of an area over a long period of time (p.136) |