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Chapter 15 Hairstyling

Students will be able to note three types of hair pressing. Describe the different variations of finger waving, pincurl placement, roller setting, and hair wrapping.

AB
Inbetween salon visits, the client should have knowledge ofhome hair maintenance and professional products
The first step in the hairstyling process should always be aclient consultation
Shaping and directing the hair into an S formation using a comb, lotion, and the fingers is calledfinger waving
Hair gel that makes the hair pliable, keeps it in place, and is made from karaya gum iswaving lotion
When creating finger waves with a side part, you should begin on theheavy side
In creating horizontal finger waves, the waves are placedsideways and parallel around the head
The stationary foundation of a pin curl is thebase
The part of a pin curl that gives the curl its direction and movement is thestem
The stem of the pin curl is the part that determinesmobility
Pin curls that produce tight, firm, long-lasting curls and allow for minimum mobility areno-stem pin curl
Pin curls formed in a shaping should begin at theopen end
Smooth waves and uniform curls are produced byopen center curls
Pin curls formed in the opposite direction of the hands of a clock arecounterclockwise curls
Pin curl bases are referred to as rectangular, triangular, square, orarc-based
Triangular base pin curls are used along the front or facial hairline toprevent breaks or splits
Creating tension by forcing hair between the thumb and back of a comb when making pin curls is calledribboning
Pin curls sliced from a shaping and formed without lifting the hair from the head arecarved curls
Two rows of ridge curls placed on the side of a head areskip waves
Pin curls that allow the hair to flow upward and downward are called stand-up curls orcascade curls
Barrel curls are similar to a roller, but do not have the sametension
The panel of hair on which a roller is placed is thebase
Hair between the scalp and first turn of a roller is thestem
For a roller set where little or no volume is required, the rollers should be placedoff-base
The point where curls of opposite directions meet forming a recessed area isindentation
The metal edge of roller clips placed at the angle against the hair can causehair breakage
Combing small sections of hair from the ends toward the scalp creating a cushion or base isback-combing
To smooth hair that is back-combed, the teeth of the comb or brush should be held at a45-degree angle
When wrapping hair, very little volume will be obtained provided thehair at the scalp is not lifted
The nozzle attachment used in blow-drying to create a steady stream of air is theconcentrator
The tool attachment used to dry hair softly and accenturate the textural definition is adiffuser
Teeth on a styling comb that are closely spaced remove curl definition and create asmmoth surface
Classic styling brushes have rows of round-tipped nylon bristles should beheat resistant and antistatic
An ideal brush for blow-drying fine hair quickly and adding lift to the scalp area is avent brush
A thickened liquid styling tool, spread with fingers, that creates the strongest control and distinct texture definition isstyling gel
A styling aid that holds fine hair with little or no heaviness istexturizer
A styling aid applied to damp wavy or curly hair to create a straight look when the hair is blow-dried isstraightening gel
When blow-drying with a round brush, maximum lift is achieved by inserting the brush on base and directing the section up at a125 degree angle
When using a concentrator to blow-dry straight or wavy hair build the shape working fromnape to crown
Waving and curling straight or pressed hair using special manipulative techniques on dry hair isthermal curling
The basic parts of a thermal iron are the rod handle, shell handle, andbarrel and shell
The edge of a beveled flat iron that is nearest the stylist is theinner edge
To remove dirt, oils, and product residue from the barrel of a thermal iron, use a dampened towel with a soapy solution containing a few drops ofammonia
Combs used with thermal irons should be about 7 inches long and made ofa nonflammable substance
In thermal curling, hair is held at a 125 degree angle with medium tension and the curl is placed in the center if its base is afull-base curl
A type of thermal curl with only slight lift or volume can be achieved by using a 70 degree angle androlling hair completely off base
A technique used to temporarily straighten extremely curly or unruly hair until the hair is shampooed ishair pressing
Applying a thermal pressing comb through the hair twice on each side to remove curl is ahard press
Variations in hair texture and defined by thediameter and feel of the hair
Pressing wiry and curly hair requires more heat and pressure dur to thecompact construction of the cuticle cells
A tight scalp can be made more flexible with hair brushing and the systematic use ofscalp massage
The temperature of pressing combs should be testedon a piece of light paper
To prevent the smoking or burning off of hair during the pressing treatment, avoidexcessive pressing oil
When executing an updo, always inspect the shape you are building from every angle to determinebalance and proportion
A styling product available in a variety of strengths applied in the form of a mist to hold a style in position ishair spray
A method of curling hair by winding a strand around a rod is a(n):spiral curl



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