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Cosmetology Review Exam #8 (Part I)

Students will be able to prepare for their South Carolina
State Board Exam with questions related to cosmetology
theory.

AB
Physical changes in the hair arerelatively mild
Static electricity in hair is increased bydrying
Changing water from ice to steam is an example of aphysical change
Porous hair that is to be chemically changed in permanent waving will usually requireweaker solutions
A typical salon service that involves chemical change is apermanent wave
When solutions are made by dissolving compounds in water, their reaction is either acid, neutral oralkaline
The pH of a solution represents its degree ofacidity or alkalinity
A solution that has a pH number between zeor and seven will tend to beacid
Conditioners, cream rinses and other preparations designed to restore hair to normal, generally have a/anlow pH figure
One advantage of using soapless or acid balanced shampoos is the elimination ofexcess swelling of the cuticle
Since the astringent effect of mild acids will cause cuticle scales to press down more firmly, hair sheen or luster willincrease
Solutions are considered to be mildly alklaine in the pH range of7.5 to 10.0
Normally resistant hair will be more readily penetrated by preparations that aremildly alklaine
Hair will appear drab and dull when left in amildly alkaline state
Hydrogen peroxide solutions must be stabilized withmild acids
Matter comes in the form of solids, liquids andgases
Matter can be subdivided into elements andcompounds
The properties of an element are the same as the properties of itsindividual atoms
When two or more different kinds of atoms are locked together it is called a/anmolecule
Typical compounds are water, alcohol, ammonium thioglycolate andhydrogen peroxide
The mixture that results from the combination of a compound and a solvent is known as a/ansolution
The ability of a solvent to dissolve a compound stems from a natural attraction betweenmolecules
One of the safest and best solvents touse on the hair iswater
The most common emulsions used for hair services are oil-in-water andwater-in-oil
When water molecules enter the cortex of dry hair, they restore the natural moisture content which is about10%
Physcial bonds hold parallel chains of polypeptides together and in this role they supportchemical bonds
The most numerous cross-bonds found in hair arehydrogen bonds
The sulphur cross-bonds within the cortex are also known ascystine bonds
In the case of cystine bonds, there must be direct contact between twosulphur atoms
The greatest strength and elasticity of hair is due to thepeptide bonds in the cortex
The formation of hair begins with thedigestion of proteins
Amino acids that will be usd by the body in the formation of hair are transported by the bloodstream to thecapillaries in each papilla
The portion fo the papilla that is directly responsibile for the production of new hair cells isgerminative layer
As a newly formed hair cell pushes upward through the zone of keratinization, the nucleus dies and the cell walldisappears
As the amino acids become joined together by peptide bonds, they are then calledpolypeptide chains
All cross-bonds are in their corresponding straight positions in the case ofnaturally staright hair
With reference to hair structure and chemistry the symbol "H" refers tophysical or hydrogen bonds
Excess swelling and snarling of hair in wet setting can be prevented by using setting lotions with a/anacid pH
A hair set will hold just as long asmoisture is kept out of the cortex
The shrinking and hardening of the cuticle imbrications is a beneficial effect of setting lotions that aremild acids
Through brushing the hair it is possible to removelarge particles of dirt
The tail of a shampoo molecule has a strong affinity fordirt and grease
A thick, rich lather is caused bytrapped air bubbles
The number of shampoo molecules that cling to the fiber, dirt, oil and grease depends upon theamount and type of shampoo used
Matting and tangling of the hair strands during shampooing is generally caused by massage andlifted cuticle imbrications
Excess alkali is added to soaps and shampoos for the purpose ofcounteracting acids
The head of the molecule found in soap shampoos is usuallyammonia
Anti-static compounds, added to soapless shampoos, tend to reducefly-away hair
Because soapless shampoos can be pre-designed or "tailor-made" they have tremendousflexibility
The word "detergent" is usually associated withsoapless shampoos



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