| A | B |
|---|
| The cortex/cuticle ratio refers to | the amount of cortex in relation to the cuticle of hair |
| The amount of cortex in relation to the cuticle will determin the | holding power of the wave |
| All solutions that must perform their action on the cortical layer must | first pass through the cuticle layer |
| When cold waving extremely resistant hair, an important adjustment in procedure would be to | predampen hair with processing solution |
| The desirable effect achieved through the absorption of water into the cortex of hair having an uneven porosity is | uniform processing |
| Test curls, in cold waving, are valuable because they | indicate average curl formation throughout the head |
| Before any slip of the keratin chains can take place in cold waving, the waving solution must penetrate the cortex and | break the S-bonds |
| The amount of processing time required and the rate at which S-bonds are broken in the cortex will depend upon the | porosity of the cuticle |
| Over-processed hair will often appear | frizzy |
| Hair damaged through over-processing in cold waving, in addition to have a poor wave, will also | loose elasticity |
| Rods, having a smaller diameter thatn the desired curl, are used in permanent waving because | slight relaxation of the wave takes place |
| Under normal circumstances, H-bonds are dominant | when the hair is dry |
| Proper drying of hair following a set, serves to hold the hair in its waved form by | re-forming H-bonds |
| Over a period of time, the setting of hair that has been permanently waved brings less and less success because of | a gradual relaxation of the wave held by altered S-bonds |
| When permanently waved hair is exposed to sunlight, the wave is | weakened |
| In naturally straight hair both sulphur and hydrogen bonds are positioned straight across each | polypeptide chain |
| The penetration of waving solution into the cortex must be | rapid and uniform |
| Shampooing is a useful preparatory step in cold waving since it will | even out porous areas in the hair |
| The main reason for breaking the S-bonds in the cortex is to | allow slipping of the keratin chains |
| In cold waving, the slipping of keratin chains can be determined by the | test curls |
| The typical pH range for alkaline cold wave solutions is | 9.4. to 9.6 |
| An example of a strong oxidizer is | hydrogen peroxide |
| A very strong attraction exists between hydrogen atoms joined to sulphur atoms, and active | oxygen |
| Most thio-type neutralizers are found to be | mildly acid solutions |
| One thing that alkaline as well as acid and neutral cold wave solutions have in common is their | ability to break sulphur bonds |
| In order to present a completely natural appearance using artificial color, coloring materials must | be deposited under the cuticle |
| The characteristic color seen in hair that has been tinted or dyed is due to | the reflection of light falling on the colored molecules |
| In the case of semi-permanent tints, a more lasting coloring effect is achieved when color molecules become attached or fixed to the | keratin of the hair |
| Water rinses color the hair by | attachment between cuticle imbrications |
| An uneven, patchy color effect is most common when color rinses are applied to | porous hair |
| Before coming in contact with a developer, the molecules of permanent tints are | colorless |
| When mixed with a permanent tint base, hydrogen peroxide solution serves as a | developer |
| To neutralize and counteract the acid which is stabilizing the developer, the pH of a tint base is usually increased through the addition of | ammonia |
| Many permanent tints are thickened as creams in order to | give greater control during application |
| Developers, used in permanent tinting, are chemical compounds that release | oxygen |
| The excess alkali found in a permanent tint base formula is designed to | raise the cuticle imbrications |
| The developer or oxidizer will only work in alkaline conditions at a pH of | 9.0 to 10.0 |
| Chemicals found in the stripper act to | break up the tint pigments into smaller, colorless particles |
| In the lightening process, the darker color of hair is reduced in stages. The red and yellow colors that appear are found in the | oxymelanins |
| When metallic salts, found in metallic dyes, come in contact with hydrogen peroxide will be | a violent chemical breakdown |
| In lightening hair, a swelling of the hair shaft is desirable because | it allows the lightener to rapidly enter the cortex |
| A typical activating agent used to increase the pH of hydrogen peroxide is | ammonia water |
| The pH of an activated hydrogen peroxide solution to be used in lightening should be about | 10.0 |
| In the mixing of powder lighteners, the correct alkali balance is determined by | the consistency of the formula as specified by manufacturer's direction |
| A lightener will not do its job effectively if the hydrogen peroxide solution | breaks down too rapidly |
| When chemically straightening fine hair, it will | process faster |
| The sulphur content found in hair varies. The higher sulphur content is found in | red and black hair |
| The function of chemcial hair straightening cream is two-fold. It breaks down both hydrogen and sulpfur cross-bonds and | holds the hair in a straight position during processing |
| In chemical hair straightening, the strong alkali found in certain products serves to | swell the hair and facilitate penetration |
| After the processing cream is applied to the hair in chemical hair straightening, the hair strands are arranged in a straight position by | hand and comb manipulations |
