| A | B |
|---|
| In order to permanently cold wave the hair, it is necessary to | break both S-bonds and H-bonds |
| In cold waving, the removal of all foreign matter, including excess shampoo, serves to insure | rapid and uniform penetration of waving lotion |
| In cold waving, water saturated hair fiber, towel dried only, will tend to | increase the rate of solution absorption |
| The action of the cold wave solution serves to break the H-bonds and | many of the S-bonds |
| During the processing phase of cold waving, borken S- and H-bonds will allow a | very small slippage of each keratin chain |
| Alkaline type cold waving solutions usually contain | ammonium thioglycolate |
| Neutralizers used in cold waving are rich in | oxygen atoms |
| Most cold wave neutralizers contain | hydrogen peroxide |
| The typical pH range for neutralizers used in alkaline thio-type permanent waving is | 3.0 to 4.0 |
| In the cold waving process, borken cystine - or S-bonds must be re-formed while | keratin chains are in their new position |
| During the cold wave process, the amount of slip of the keratin chains in the cortex can be carefully measured by | test curls |
| If neutralizer is applied before a sufficient number of chemical bonds of the cortex have been broken, the hair will be | under-processed |
| If cold wave processing is continued beyond the stage of what might be considered over-processed, hair will be | completely damaged |
| In over-processing hair, the slip of the keratin chains on the rods becomes exaggerated, and the solution begins to | weaken the end bonds |
| Hair breakage and loss of cuticle scales are signs of | over-processing |
| A knowledge of the cortex/cuticle ratio is more important in the case of | fine hair |
| Fine hair is often harder to wave because it has a/an | low cortex/cuticle ratio |
| The waving action of cold waving solution acts mainly upon the | imbrications |
| In cold waving, an important step that serves to reduce the penetration time of resistant hair is | thorough shampooing |
| The absorption of water by the porous sections of the cortex retards the action of the cold wave solution by | dilution |
| When recently permanent waved hair is set and dried | two waves are formed, one built around the other |
| Although S-bonds are individually much stronger than H-bonds, H-bonds can control the hairstyle or form of the hair because of | their combined strength |
| Shampooing the hair is an excellent preliminary step for hairstyling because the | H-bonds are broken |
| Natural sunlight has the ability to break S-bonds because it contains | ultra-violet rays |
| During the period that altered S-bonds in permanent waved hair are broken and rebuilt as a result of various factors, the keratin chains in the cortex will | be pulled a little straighter |
| The amount of cortex is generally more abundant in | coarse hair |
| Resistant hair is typified by cuticle imbrications that are | tightly packed |
| Breaking both hydrogen and sulphur cross-bonds in the hair cortex during chemical hair relaxing | permits polypeptide chains to shift their position |
| In order to determine the reaction of hair to chemical hair relaxers, it is important to perform a | strand test |
| Over-processing hair when using thio-type or sodium hydroxide-type hair relaxers results in permanent hair damage because of the breakage of | peptide bonds |
| Most professional lighteners contain | hydrogen peroxide |
| To act upon the pigment particles of the hair, a lightener must be capable of | entering the cortex |
| In relation to lightening, a activator serves to | speed up chemical action |
| Thickening agents are added to lightening formula to | form paste |
| If a prepared lightening formula turns out to be thicker than specified by the manufacturer | additional hydrgen peroxide is required |
| The initial chemical reaction of the ligtening formula on the hair is to | oxidize the melanins |
| In lightening certain types of resistant hair | persistent red shades appear |
| The word "rinse" is associated with | temporary hair coloring |
| In the case of semi-permanent tints, the penetration of large colored molecules into the cortex is hindered by the | cuticle imbrications |
| As oxygen in the atmosphere can also cfause the formation of tints, once a tint bottle is opened, it should be | used as soon as possible |
| Simple color rinses can be easily removed from the hair through shampooing because color molecules are | trapped between cuticle scales |
| Permanent type hair tints are longer lasting than semi-permanent rinses or tints because they | form insoluable tint pigments in the cortex |
| Tints are able to enter the cortex of the hair by passing through the cuticle. However, no color will form unless they have first been mixed with | developer |
| A prepared mixture of permanent tint, when checked for pH, is found to be | alkaline |
| To prevent excessive hair damage, modern tint base formulas also contain | conditioners |
| When using permanent tints, once the base has been mixed with a developer | the application must begin immediately |
| Besides popularity, one of the major advantages of the newer hair coloring tints is that they | permit satisfactory cold waving on tinted hair |
| When hundreds of the smaller, colorless tint base molecules join together, they | cannot pass through the cuticle |
| A chemical treatment that removes permanent color with the least amount of hair damage is called | stripping |
| The benefits of applying a filler before the permanent hair coloring tint is | to add back both a base color and equalize the porosity of the hair |
