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Chapter 19 Hair Coloring

Students will be able to explain level and tone as it relates to hair coloring. List the four basic categories of hair coloring and how it is used in formulation of the product for low lights and high lights.

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A key factor in determining appropriate haircoloring services is understanding the client'smotivation
Once a stylist demonstrates the ability to skillfully color a client's hair, the client will generallyremain loyal
In choosing hair color for a client, a determining factor is the hairstructure
The layer of the hair that provides strength and elasticity is thecortex layer
The outermost layer of the hair that protects and provides strength is thecuticle layer
In individual hair strands, hair texture is determined by thediameter
Hair color applied to fine hair may lookdarker
Haircoloring services on coarse-textured hair may takelonger to process
Hair with a tight cuticle resistant to moisture or chemicals is defined as havinglow porosity
The predominant melanin that gives black or brown color to hair iseumelanin
Pigment that lies under the natural hair color is thecontributing pigment
The lightness or darkness of a color is called thelevel
The system used by colorist is analyze the lightness or darkness of a hair color is thelevel system
Hair color levels are arranged on a scale from1 to 10
Hair color tones can be described aswarm, neutral, and cool
Colors that absorb light and appear darker than their actual level arecool colors
Warm tones reflect light and may appearlighter
Colors that are described as sandy or tan are considerednatural tones
The first step in performing a haircolor service is to identifynatural levels
Colors that we see are contained in thevisible light spectrum
Artificial hair colors are developed from the primary and secondary colors that formbase colors
A color that will help minimize orange tones in the hair is ablue base color
A system that is used to understand color relationships is thelaw of color
Colors that are pure or fundamental and cannot be achieved from a mixture areprimary colors
The primary colors areyellow, blue, and red
The darkest and only cool primary color isblue
Red added to blue-based colors will cause them to appearlighter
A color achieved by mixing a secondary color and its neighboring primarytertiary color
Equal proportions of primary colors will produceblack
A secondary color is obtained by mixing a secondary color equal parts of twoprimary colors
A primary and secondary color positioned opposite each other on the color wheel arecomplementary colors
Complementary colors are used in color formulation toneutralize each other
The process of diffusing natural color pigment or artificial color from the hair ishair lightening
All permanent hair color products and lighteners contain an oxidizing agent and a (n)alkalizing ingredient
A hair-lightening process occurs when the alkaline peroxidebreaks up the melanin
Temporary color pigment molecules do not penetrate because they arelarge
Semipermanent hair color on average should last4 to 6 weeks
Hiarcoloring that penetrates the hair shaft and is formulated to deposit but not lift color isdemipermanent hair color
Demipermanent hair color is available in a variety of formulas includingcreams, gels, and liquid
Uncolored dye precursors that can be diffused into the hair shaft are used inpermanent hair color formulas
Dye precursors that combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger tint molecules areaniline derivatives
Although many semipermanent and demipermanent colors use alkalizing agents other than ammonia, they are not necessarily any lessdamaging
Permanent haircoloring products are mixed withhydrogen peroxide
Permanent hair color products used for gray hair remove natural pigment andadd artificial color
To provide maximum lift in a one-process color service, most high-lift colors require40 volume peroxide
Haircoloring products that change hair color by creating a progressive buildup containmetallic colors
The most common developer used in haircoloring ishydrogen peroxide
Lighteners are chemical compounds that lighten natural hair pigment by dispersing, dissolving, anddecolorizing
When hydrogen peroxide is mixed with a lightener formula, it releasesoxygen
During the decolorization process, natural hair can go through as many as10 stages
Toners are used to achieve pale, delicate colors and are applied to create the correct degree ofcontributing pigment
The test required by the U.S. Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act to determine client allergies or sensitivities is thepredisposition test
To determine how hair will react to a selected color formula, perform a (n)preliminary strand test
When selecting a semipermanent color, remember that color applied on top of color containsa darker color
Permanent hair color applications are classified as double-process orsingle process
The application process that is used for first-time color applications isvirgin application
Overlapping color can cause breakage and create a sign of roots orline of demarcation
Double-process lightening is prelightening hair to a very blonde stage and applying atoner
For a single-process color for virgin hair, the color processes fastest atthe scalp
Cream lighteners are formulated to be usedon the scalp
The three forms of hair lighteners areoil, powder, and cream
An oxidizer added to hydrogen peroxide to increase its lifting power action is a (n)activator
A technique of coloring strands of hair darker than the natural color islowlighting
A foil technique where a straight and narrow section of hair at the scalp is positioned for color or lightener application isslicing
In the foil technique when selected strands are picked up from a narrow section of hair with a zigzag motion of the comb, and lightener is applied inweaving
When coloring for a client with 80 to 100 percent gray, the color levels that provide the best coverage arelevel 7 and darker
To cover unpigment hair in a salt-and-pepper client, the color formulation should betwo levels lighter than the natural level
Pretreating gray or very resistant hair to allow for better penetration ispresoftening
Preparations designed to equal porosity and deposit a base color in one application arefillers
To increase the longevity of a professional color service and preserve the health of client's hair, the stylist shoudl encourage them to use onlyprofessional products



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