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Chapter 18 Chemical Texture Services

Students will be able to note the difference between physical and chemical change. Describe the various types of permanent waving solutions. Understand the difference between hydroxide and thio relaxers.

AB
The chemical texture service that loosens overly curly hair into loose curls or waves iscurl re-formation
All chemical texture procedures involve changing the hair structure usingchemical and physical changes
The exterior hair structure layer that protects the hair from damage is thecuticle
The layer of the hair that provides strength and elasticity is thecortex
Hair bonds that cannot be broken by heat or water aredisulfide bonds
The natural pH of hair is between4.5 and 5.5
One of the most important parts of a successful texture service is theclient consultation
Permanent waves cannot be performed if the hair is coated withmetallic salts
Disulfide bonds are chemical-based side bonds that are formed whensulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together
The measurement used to determine the hydrogen ions in a solution ispotential of hydrogen
Chemical texturizers temporarily raise the pH of the hair by lifting the cuticle layer toallow penetration to the cortex layer
Long, coiled polypeptide chains that are part of the hairs structure arekeratin proteins
The client record card should include a complete evaluation of the length, texture, color, andcondition of the hair
During the hair and scalp analysis procedure, the stylist should look forabrasions or signs of scalp disease
Hair texture that requires a longer processing or rewetting of solution to ensure complete saturation iscoarse-textured hair
The measurement of the number of hairs per square inch on the head isdensity
An indication of the strength of the side bonds iselasticity
The second process of a permanent wave is thechemical change process
In permanent waving, the size of the curl is determined by thesize of the rod
The permanent wave rod that produces a uniform curl along the entire width of the strand is astraight rod
A wrapping technique using two endpapers, one placed under the strand and one over is thedouble-flat wrap
Permanent wave rods are placed onto subsections of a panel calledbase sections
The position of a permanent wave rod in relation to its base section is thebase placement
The technique of wrapping at a 90 degree angle or straight out from the center ishalf-off base placement
The two basic types of wrapping hair around a perm rod are the spiral method andcroquignole method
A technique used to wrap extra-long hair using two rods in opposite directions is a(n)piggyback wrap
A reduction reaction involves either the addition of hydrogen or removal ofoxygen
A common, colorless reducing agent used in chemical texture services isthoglycolic acid
The main reducing agent in alkaline permanents isammonium thioglycolate
Most alkaline permanent waves have a pH between9.0 and 9.6
The primary low pH reducing agent in acid waves isglyceryl monothioglycolate
An exothermic chemical reaction producesheat
The basic components of acid waves are permanent wave solution andactivator and neutralizer
An endothermic wave must be activated using a(n)outside heat source
In permanent waving, the processing should be determined by thestrength of the solution
Hair that is too weak to hold a curl or may be completely straight after a perm isover-processed
The process of stopping the action of a permanent wave isneutralization
Permanent wave solution shoudl be rinsed from the hair for a minimum of5 minutes
A 90-degree perm wrap that minimizes stress and tension on the hair ishalf off base
The process of rearranging extremely curly hair into a straighter or smoother form ischemical hair relaxing
In extremely curly hair, the thinnest and weakest sections of the hair strand are located at thetwists
Thio chemcial relaxers usually have a pH value above10
The active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers is the hydroxideneutralization
All hydroxide relaxers can swell the hair up tothree times its diameter
Hydroxide relaxers remove one atom of sulfur from a disulfide bond converting it into alanthionine bond
Disulfide bonds broken by hydroxide relaxers can nerver bereformed
Hydroxide ions left in the hair after a relaxer can be neutralized using a(n)acid-balanced shampoo
Relaxers containing one component used without any additional mixing aremetal hydroxide relaxers
Sodium hydroxide relaxers (NaOH) are commonly calledlye relaxers
Cream used to protect the skin and scalp during a hair-relaxing process isbase cream
A relaxer with two components mixed immediately prior to use isguanidine hydroxide relaxer
Lithium hydroxide relaxers and potassium hydroxide relaxers are advertised and sold asno-lye relaxers
Ammonium sulfite and ammonium bisulfite are marketed asmild alternative relaxers
The strength of relaxers is determined by the concentrated ofhydroxide
To avoid overporcessing during a retouch relaxer application, wait until the last few minutes of processing to apply relaxer to the areaclosest to the scalp
Conditioners with an acidic pH that condition and normalize hair prior to shampooing arenormalizing lotions
Curl reformation does not straighten the hair, it simply makes the existing curllarger and looser
To avoid scalp irritation, prior to the application of a hydroxide relaxer nevershampoo the hair
To avoid excessive stretching of the hair when combing out tangles, use awide-toothed comb
Performing texture services involves powerful chemicals that must be handled withcaution
The term used to describe removing excess water before the application of a neutralizer isblotting
When checking for test curl development, the test curl should reflectfirm S formation
When performing test curls, the rod should be unwound approximately1 1/2 turns
Incorrect placement of the rubber band of perm rods will cause band marks orbreakage
When working with hair that has been chemically relaxed, you should avoid usinghot irons



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