| A | B |
|---|
| wave height | distance from low spot (trough) to high spot crest |
| wave length | distance between successive high points or low points |
| wave period | amount of time it takes as one wave length passes a point |
| oscillatory | up and down like a circle |
| translational | elliptical shape |
| surf zone | area where wave begun to fall forward |
| swash zone | where water moves up and back |
| longshore current | movement of water parallel to coastline because of wave refraction |
| longshore drift | movement of sediment parallel to shoreline |
| coastal straightening | deposition and drift, current make headlands erode away |
| rip currents | fast moving perpendicular offshore |
| spits | sand extends partway across bay |
| baymouth bar | when sand extends all the way across |
| tombolo | could end up being reconnected this is what the ridge is known as |
| barrier islands | sand dune sits parallel to shoreline |
| jetties | perpendicular to shoreline reduce speed sand is moving |
| groins | individual placed perpendicular to shore if waves come in on angle acts like impediment |
| breakwaters | pour concrete down |
| spring tides | full moon gravity stronger |
| neap tides | quarter moons |
