A | B |
wave | The movement of energy through a body of water. |
crest | The highest point of a wave. |
wavelength | The horizontal distance between two wave crests. |
frequency | The number of waves that pass a specific point in a given amount of time. |
trough | The lowest point of a wave. |
wave height | The vertical distance from the crest of a wave to the trough. |
Longshore Drift | The movement of water and sediment along a beach caused by waves coming into shore at an angle. |
sandbar | A ridge of sand deposited by waves as they slow down near shore. |
rip current | A rush of water that flows rapidly back to sea through a narrow opening. |
groin | A stone or concrete wall built out from a beach to reduce erosion. |
salinity | The amount of dissolved salts in a water sample. |
current | A large stream of moving water that flows through the ocean. |
Coriolis effect | The way Earth's rotation makes winds in the Northern Hemisphere curve to the right and winds in the Southern Hemisphere cure to the left. |
climate | The average, year-after-year conditions of temperature, precipitation, winds and clouds in an area. |
upwelling | An upward flow of cold water from the ocean depths. |