| A | B |
|---|
| Hair structure | Cuticle, cortex, medulla |
| Cuticle | Has 6-18 layers, water loving, protects |
| Cortex | 85% of total weight, strongest, twisting fibers of keratin |
| Medulla | Innermost hair shaft |
| Atom | Made of extremely tiny particles called protons, neutrons, and electrons |
| Protons | Positive |
| Neutrons | Neutral |
| Electrons | Negative |
| 5 Atoms found in hair | Carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, sulfur |
| 2 types of amino acid | Essential, non essential |
| 18 amino acids found in hair | Non essential |
| Peptide Bonds | Amino acid linked together |
| 50 amino acids in a polypeptide chain | Protein |
| Polypeptide chains link together with a side bonds create | Helix coil |
| 3 cross bonds | Hydrogen, salt, disulfide |
| Hydrogen bond | Can occur between oxygen and hydrogen molecules. Easiest to break |
| Ionic bond | Can break and go back to original state |
| Salt bond | +/- amino chain. Broken with pH |
| Disulfide | Links together by 2 sulfur atoms attached to cysteine amino acid |
| Covalent bond | Can never be reformed to natural state |
| Chemical makeup of hair | Protein 65-95%. Strong, bounce back |
| Moisture | 32% absorb and strech |
| Melanin | 1-2% natural pigment determines hair color |
| Two types of melanin | Pheomelanin, eumelanin |
| Pheomelanin | Light 6-10 |
| Eumelanin | Dark 1-6 |
| Red | 1 |
| Red orange | 5 |
| Orange red | 6 |
| Yellow orange | 7-8 |
| Yellow | 10 |
| Lipids | Glue that holds protein |
| If an atoms loses an electron it becomes ? | A positive ion |
| Atom gains an electron becomes a | Negative ion |
| Ph scale | Indicates the amount of hydrogen ions and hydroxide ions in a solution |
| Color | Reflection of object when there is light |
| The law of color | A true law is something that can’t be changed |
| Primary colors | Red, yellow, blue |
| Secondary colors | Orange, violet, green |
| Level system | A number system and measurement of dark to light |
| Dominant pigment | The underlying tone in hair. Warm tones are exposed during the lifting process as natural melanin is broken up |
| Tone | Describes value warm, cool, neutral |
| Warm tones | Yellow, gold, reds |
| Cool tones | Pink, violet, blues |
| Neutral tones | Balance between warm and cool |
