| A | B |
|---|
| Ingredients in hair color | Ammonia, Base, Color Pigment, Developer |
| Ammonia | Inorganic substance, doesn’t contain carbon. Rises pH by removing positive ions. Leaving hair in alkaline hydroxide ion. |
| A-MEA | Ammonia Free substitute |
| What does ammonia or MEA do? | Causes cuticle to swell |
| Base | Binds the components in hair color tube together. Sometimes has conditioning agents |
| Color pigment | Oxidative. A colorless molecule until it is mixed with hydrogen peroxide |
| Direct pigment | A large pre colored molecule that deposits on the outside of the cuticle layers. |
| Developer | Activator. Component in oxidative hair dye. When mixed with ammonia causes oxidation |
| Developer levels | 3.5-4.5 on pH scale |
| Developer comes in Percent vs _____ | Volume |
| Developer comes in what numbers | 5, 10,20,30,40 |
| Color vs lightener 20, 20, 40 | 20 1-2 level of lift. 30 2-3 levels of lift. 40 3-4 levels of lift |
| Temporary hair color | Non oxidative. No developer needed. Sticks to cuticle layer. Acidic, direct pigment |
| Semi-Permanent | Sometimes requires oxidation. Adheres to outside of cuticle. Some pigment may penetrate outer layers of cuticle. Mostly direct pigments |
| What does semi-permanent do? | Deposits only, blends 30-50% gray, stains. Last 6-8 shampoos/2-4 weeks |
| Demi permanent | Oxidative-requires developer. Deposits into cuticle layers. enetrates into cortex if ammonia/MEA is present. |
| What does Demi permanent do? | Deposits and sometimes lifts. Blends 50-75% gray. Stains. Last 16 shampoos/4-6 weeks |
| Permanent | Oxidases. PEnetrates completely into cortex. REquires ammonia. Alkaline. Dire and indirect pigments. Commitment color. Line of demarcation |
| What does permanent do? | Deposits and lifts. Covers 100% gray. Stain. Mix ration 1:1 |
| 2 ways to color hair | All over color or demensional |
| What is all over color? | One solid effect. Any type of hair. Covers gray. |
| Section for all over hair color | 1/4 inch section, 1/8 when using lightener |
