| A | B |
|---|
| acid-balanced waves | perm with pH between 7.8 and 8.2 that process at room temperature and do not require the added heat of a hair dryer; process more quickly & produce firmer curls than true acid waves |
| alkaline/cold waves | permanent waves that process at room temperature without the addition of heat; most alkaline waves have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6 |
| ammonia-free waves | perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is very little odor associated with their use |
| ammonium thiglycolate (ATG) | main active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents |
| base sections | subsections of panels into which hair ids divided for perm wrapping; one tool is normally placed on each base section |
| bookend wrap | perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope |
| chemical hair relaxing | process of rearranging the basic structure of extremely curly hair into a straight form |
| chemical texture services | hair services that cause a chemical change that permanently alters the natural wave pattern of the hair |
| croquignole perms | perms in which the hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp, in overlapping layers |
| disulfide bonds | side bonds between the polypeptide chains in the cortex; join cysteine sulfur atom on one polypeptide chain with cysteine sulfur atoms on neighboring polypeptide chains to form cystine, the oxidized form of cysteine |
| double flat wrap | perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under, and one paper over, the strand of hair being wrapped |
| endothermic waves | perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type dryer |
| end papers/wraps | absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping winding hair on perm tools |
| exothermic waves | perm that creates an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the solution and speeds up the processing |
| hydrogen bonds | relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; easily broken by water, as in wet setting, or heat, as in thermal styling, and reform as the hair dries or cools |
| hydroxide relaxers | relaxers with a very high pH, sometimes over 13 |
| neutralizaton | process of stopping the action of a permanent wave solution and hardening the hair in hts new form by the application of a chemical solution called the neutralizer |
| normalizing solutions | conditioners with an acidic pH that condition the hair and restore the natural pH prior to shampooing |
| peptide or end bonds | chemical bonds that join amino acids together |
| soft curl permanents | combination of thio relaxers and thio permanents that are wrapped on large tools; used to make existing curl larger and looser |
| thioglycolic acid | colorless liquid with a strong, unpleasant odor; provides the hydrogen that causes the reduction reaction in permanent waving |
| true acid waves | perms that have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0 and require heat to speed processing; process more slowly than alkaline waves and do not usually produce as firm a curl |
